Our Ulster Way Booky-Wook

THE ULSTER WAY IN SIX CONSECUTIVE DAYS
On foot and single-speed mountain bike
David Creighton & Rick McKee
3rd – 8th May 2008

The Ulster Way is a 600-mile meandering loop of Northern Ireland, covering minor roads, paths, tracks, open mountain and bog-land, and taking in many of Northern Ireland’s Way-marked Ways.

On 3rd May 2008, Rick McKee and David Creighton embarked upon an adventure that had never before been attempted; the completion of the entire Ulster Way on foot and by bike in only 6 consecutive days. To add further spice to the challenge, the journey was undertaken on mountain bikes without any gears.

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Why did we attempt The Ulster Way in Six Days? We did it to see if we could do it, to have fun with something different, to have an adventure, to see more of Ulster, and because nobody else (to our knowledge) had done it in that timeframe.

We knew it would be hard work covering six hundred miles in six days over all kinds of terrain, but we were sure it was doable. Six days was just too tight a time-frame to fully enjoy it, though. As it was, we were arriving every night late, completely wasted, just collapsing and waking up too few hours later to do the same again – we just had no time to relax.

The single-speed bikes were a mistake, in hindsight. It was fine for the first day or two, but it soon started to take its toll on our knees and upper bodies, as there was only one way up the hills unless we wanted to walk, and that was to get out of the saddle and just haul up. After a couple of days of it, we were getting pretty tired and lethargic, which is no mood to be in on a single-speed if you want to make any progress.

We completely underestimated the amount we would need to eat during each day, and the time it would take us to eat it. We tended to take a long lunch break and stuff ourselves with chips, beans, chicken and a tall coke plus chocolate and crisps, and the days were further punctuated with plenty of other shop stops and eating breaks.

We wanted to take our time, take pictures, enjoy the route and enjoy the trip, and other than meeting our six-day target (which was all we had booked away from work and families), we were in no rush each day - we would just finish when we finished!

The Ulster Way in Six Days is a trip we will never forget, but we have no immediate plans to repeat it, as it nearly killed us!

You can keep up to date with the latest from Tango & Cash at http://www.tangoandcash.blogspot.com/

Day 6 of The Ulster Way

Portrush to Belfast City Hall, via Ballycastle, The Moyle Way, The Antrim Hills Way, Ballyboley, Woodburn, Belfast.

98 miles of torture, in a mere 17 hours!

Well, we finished, at 1:00am, having started the day at 8am with a photo for RNLI in Portrush. That was pretty much the last time we smiled until we finished. Phil was our cheerful companion for 65 miles or so, into Glenarm, before heading for home, having run out of Minstrels!

In the morning, round the coast towards Ballycastle, my front cog exploded into 50 bits and I fell off as a result, which gave us a problem for an hour or so, as single speed bikes only have one cog! Flipping the bike over to change the cog also wiped our GPS data for that morning, as the reset button was held down, so that was further joy!

The generous Ivan Park, who had joined us for the morning at Dunseverick, allowed us to strip his bike for parts, and we left the poor lad with a useless bike and kept moving, stopping briefly for EXCELLENT fish and chips in Ballycastle.

The Moyle Way, from Ballycastle to Glenariff, was unspeakably unpleasant with the bike, albeit the scenery was lovely. We had to walk and drag and carry and haul our bikes for mile upon mile of soft, muddy, tussocky, heathery ground, and we hit our mental lowpoint half-way down Trostan, having thought that nothing could have been worse than coming off Slieveanorra.

By the time we reached Waterfoot, it was nearly 8pm, we were utterly depressed, and we still had an hour's pedal to Glenarm, and the entire Antrim Hills Way to do, before a 30-odd mile pedal back to Belfast. Our GPS conked out half way to Glenarm, but we took photos to document things instead.

Lynda Foy from Larne Borough Council met us in Carnlough with loads of provisions, including sweets, bananas, waterm orange juice, a torch, maps, etc etc, in anticipation of us tackling the Antrim Hills, and it was great to have the additional support.

We left the valiant Phil in Glenarm, and set off up the long 20%(!) road climb before we were to strike for the open hills. After much debate, and enormous regret, given how far we had come, we took what we think was the right decision NOT to go onto the open mountain in the dark, as we did not know those hills, the ground was rough, we had bikes to carry, there were cliffs (I could give another 20 reasons!).

So we effectively missed the open sections of the Antrim Hills Way, sticking to the high road instead, and headed for Ballyboley on the roads. This was particularly disappointing given how Lynda Foy has supported and encouraged us, but was the right move.

Tim Holmes, who started out with us last Saturday to see us off, and who has been a constant source of encouragement on text messages over the past 6 days, met us in Ballyboley to see us back to Belfast, and, given that it was 10:45 by the time we met him, we were VERY glad that he could take over some of the navigation to get us along the rest of the Ulster Way, through the likes of Woodburn (which he knows well) and back to Belfast.

Bugsy (my bro) met us outside the City Hall. The goths had all gone home, and there were just a few drunk girls to welcome us back, after our 600 mile round trip, but they were understandably stand-offish, given our condition.

Fillet steak and roast chicken, supplied by Bugsy, was ready for us in the car, and we devoured it with great gusto.

A big thanks to Tim for getting us back from Ballyboley- I honestly don't think we would have made it back without him.

We learnt loads on the trip, and will share a few conclusions and comments when we get our heads back together. Thanks for all your support over the last week.

(T, does that still count for a half-pint?...)

Rick & Davy
Tango & Cash

Thanks for all your support

Thanks for all your texts and comments - really making us laugh a lot, and there have not been too many laughs this week apart from that!! Thanks for the support, everybody!

DON'T FORGET TO DONATE TO RNLI LIFEBOATS!

Day 5 of The Ulster Way

Gortin to Portrush. (Again, Raymond from Bella Vista B&B in Belcoo, we are so grateful to you for running our bags to Gortin for us and donating to RNLI - thank you so much)

85 miles, 2500 vertical metres of climbing, over 13 hours.

Today was FANTASTIC! The weather was brilliant all day again, and we started the day with a big climb before going along the Central Sperrins Way, which was totally new territory to us, and a real highlight of the trip. The views and the terrain were amazing, and we hope to be back some day soon.

Lunchtime took a new twist today. Bugsy and Hugh met us in Dungiven, and produced a picnic hamper. We stretched out on the camping chairs the guys had brought, and enjoyed fresh strawberries, fruit salad, chicken liver pate on fresh baguette, stuffed olives, spicy chicken, pasta salad, Red Bull, sweeties, and Pringles, all washed down with a glass of the finest chilled Chardonnay!

Richard Gillen, Countryside Recreation Officer from Limavady Borough Council, also joined the party, and produced dessert comprising extremely sticky buns and Haribo sweets.

All this was the perfect preparation for getting stuck into a 300 vertical metre climb from Dungiven up Moydamlaght. Again, the views were simply amazing all day, with the climbs, descents and views reminding us of the Alps! The picnic team drove to the top of the mountain to meet us again, just to rub it in that we had to slog up under our own steam, and Richard Gillen felt the guilt and pushed my bike for me for 300 yards.

The only trouble with today was the amount of carrying we had to do. LOTS of the route was over terrain that was impossible to cycle on, so it was over the shoulder and hike-a-bike for some long sections, which was just misery.

Shirley Park met us outside Downhill Forest and guided us home to Portrush, where the CCAR contingent of Ivan, Joan and Keith were there in full CCAR fig to welcome us in, meeting us at the RNLI station. Delighted the the folks also made a very generous donation to our RNLI Lifeboats fundraising efforts.

Phil was on our doorstep when we arrived in Portrush tonight, and we were so grateful to see him, that we sent him down into the town to buy us some chips, hehe.

Big day tomorrow, our last day, finishing at City Hall at probably 10 or 11 pm, and Phil joins us for the ride! :-o

Day 4 of the Ulster Way

Belcoo to Gortin

95 miles, just over 12 hours, 2875 vertical metres of climbing.

Glorious day that saw us get another roasting, and we amazingly finished an hour ahead of schedule. We did not start until nearly 9am, so reluctant were we to get back on the bikes an leave our hosts in Belcoo.

The views all day were simply breathtaking, but we had to work hard to get them, with the hills and the wind our enemies all day. Both of us were pretty banjaxed, both complaining of sore knees, and both REALLY looking forward to finishing.

We have concluded that single speed was madness for this trip , something we would have been better deciding before we started. Our Chips today were enjoyed in Pettigo. In an act of unblieveable generosity, the owner of our bed and breakfast in Belcoo donated to lifeboats and then offered to drive our bags to Gortin, which solved a big problem for us. More on this later.

The finish was savage, with endless climbing towards and around Gortin Glen, and we were very happy boys to finally roll to the hostel and collapse at 9pm. Tomorrow sees us hopefully reaching the North Coast!

Day 3 of the Ulster Way

Tandragee to Aughnacloy on road, Slieve Beagh Way marked way to Donagh. On to Florence Court then Belcoo.

115 miles, 3025 vertical climbing metres, 14 hours on the go.

The weather was class and we are both burnt. We were in pieces when we arrived at the bed and breakfast at 10.45pm, too late to get decent food so cereal and toast had to do!

The run across from Tandragee to Aughancloy was good fun, the weather fantastic, and we took a long break in Armagh to enjoy the sunshine and some nice coffee.

We were sorry to see the departure of Transalp hopefuls the Cooley Bulls, Mickey and Declan, at Aughnacloy, where we enjoyed a superb lunch of chips, chicken and beans. Chips have proved to be our saviours - we have devoured lots of them every day so far.

Some savage climbing on the Slieve Beagh Way slowed us badly, and it was pitch black for the last hour. There was no way we could go up through Florence Court past the swallow holes and down the cave steps with no lights, and we were already far too late for our hosts, so we did not turn off for the caves.

3 days down, 3 to go - this is HAAAAARRRRRD work!!! Cheer us up :-(

Day 2 of the Ulster Way

Across the Mournes to Rostrevor (26 miles), up the main road to Newry, round Ring of Gullion (36 miles), up the Newry Canal path to Scarva, then onto our night stop at Tandragee.

14.5 hours in the saddle, 84 miles, over 2800 metres of vertical climbing - we did not for a minute imagine that Day 2 would be as hard on us as Day 1, but so it turned out, as much of the terrain was simply woeful. We were carrying or dragging our bikes for probably half of our total time, and it was energy-sapping.

We decided to forgo our original 7am start time, and instead aimed for 8, as Day 1 had killed us. We were again joined by Mickey and Declan, who are now part of the furniture, and Joni McGlade, fresh from the hospital meat-slab.

We headed up into the Mournes in strong wind and heavy rain, and the going was slow and draining, much of it unrideable. Picked up the infamous Rowan McMahon in Tollymore, and staggered on as best we could in the terrible weather. Joni headed for home after the descent off Butter Mountain. The next section round Hen Mountain was appalling, totally unrideable and frankly depressing.

Reached Rostrevor after 5.5 hours, utterly spent, and took a break for an hour to eat the cafe out of stock. The weather then turned fantastic, and stayed so for the rest of the day, with unbroken sunshine. James Keown joined us on the road bike for a spell, but had to head back to Newry when the off-road got REALLY offroad in Ravensdale.

The run up to Newry was great, with the wind on our tails. The Ring of Gullion was much tougher than we had anticipated, with long and punishing climbs aplenty, but some fantastic descents to boot. The highlight was soup, sandwiches and coffee supplied by Davy (the other Davy) and son in Forkhill, where just previously a bull had prevented us from taking our intended route through a field - the monster was just daring us to climb that gate!

Declan and Mickey had to leave us for home at Slieve Gullion car park, so they could prepare to meet us tomorrow again, by which time it was getting dark.

The push on to Tandragee from Newry was a slog, but we were delighted to have Dale join us just outside Newry to guide us home. Big chinese on the table when we arrived at 10:45pm - sweet!

Looking forward to Day 3, Scarva to Belcoo, County Fermanagh.

Thanks to everyone for your messages of support and humour - much appreciated!!

(T, 2 days down! Half-pints at the ready!)

Day 1 of The Ulster Way

Belfast to Newscastle. via Lisburn, Carryduff, Stormont, Holywood, round the outside of Ards Peninsula to Portaferry, over the ferry to Strangford, then the Lecale Way all the way to Newcastle.

13 hours in the saddle - it was murder. 110 miles, 60 of which was into a stiff sea breeze.

We left Belfast City Hall at 8am, a team of 8 folks, 5 of us destined for Newcastle, and were glad of the company of these and other folks we picked up in Holywood. Good to have Jonny Gallier, Tim Holmes, big John, Paul Kennedy, Rick Monro, and good to see Dusty on the beach, and Terry (start pulling the half-pints, Terry! Funny the way your house happens to be on the new route!)

Highlight was the Lecale Way, particularly the first off-road section, which reminded us of North Antrim coast.

Lowlight was the drag from Murlough Bay to Newcastle along the beach. 5 bedraggled souls completed the day - Davy, me, Mickey, Declan and Mark.

Great chinese and B&B - ready for Day 2 - over the Mournes to start!

Final Call for Companions!

We start our 600 mile Ulster Way circuit tomorrow morning, Saturday 3 May, leaving from Belfast City Hall at 8am.

The plan is to head out the tow-path to Lisburn, swing round through Carryduff, Stormont to Holywood, coastal path and road to Portaferry, over on the ferry to Strangford, then the Lecale Way all the way to Newcastle. The guts of 100 miles.

We are joined on the first 3 days by two Transalp Challenge 2008 hopefuls, Mickey and Declan, plus a few extra folks for day 2, and a few others will be joining us for bits of various days, if they are as good as their word.

If you fancy the spin, meet ready to go at 8 am at the City Hall on Saturday 3 May, or at the car park at the entrance to Slieve Donard Hotel at 7am on Sunday morning, from where we will be attacking the Mournes and the Ring of Gullion, before heading up the Newry Canal path to Tandragee, where we finish day 2.

Our Single-Speed Bikes

We are both riding On One In-Bred single-speed mountain-bikes. www.on-one.co.uk

We are running gear ratio 32:16 (for those of you nerdy enough to care), which will be workable enough both on the flat and the hills, albeit on the flat we will have a pretty low terminal velocity.

There will be a fair bit of throwing the bike over the shoulder on the trip, so we will be trying to minimise any unnecessary weight.

We will also be fitting the bikes with foam pipe-cladding between the seat-tube and the top-tube. It's not pretty, but it makes a HECK of a difference to your shoulder comfort over time.

We are fitting slick tyres, as most of the route is on road, and also mud-guards, for our comfort, should the rain come!

Kit List - on the trail and in the bag

Just for reference for anyone joining us (primarily Mickey and Declan) ...

On the Trail

Section mileage sheet
Day + 1 maps
Pump
Water bottle
Winky lights
Pipe-lagging on frame (for carrying)
Front pouch bag
Mud guards
Helmet
Gloves
Glasses
Biking shoes
Base layer
Cycle top
Cycle shorts
Warm riding top
Wet weather gear
First aid kit
Compass
GPS unit
Camera
Food for day
Money
Phone
Drink
Back-pack
Chain splitter
Puncture repair kit
Sidewall repair
Tyre levers
Tubes
Spare chain links
Allen keys and spanners
Sunscreen
Combination lock
Loo roll
Zip ties
Knife

In Kit Bag

Next days' maps
Spare riding clothes
Casual clothes & shoes
Protein powder
Recovery powders
Energy powders
Food for each day
Sleeping bag
Tools
Assos cream!
Wash kit
Towel
Brake pads
Tubes
Chain
3 in one oil
Brufen
Paracetamol
Aftersun
Phone charger
Computer (for GPS download)

Start times and other final details

We will be departing from the front of Belfast City Hall at 8am on Saturday 3 May. If you plan to join us, you are more than welcome, but we are leaving at the stroke of 8, and can't hang about, as it promises to be a long week with a few unforeseen delays anyway.

The rest of the days, we plan to start at 7am.

In terms of pace and stoppages, we will be setting our own (probably very slow) pace, and Davy and I will be supporting each other, no-one else.

Note that if you fall into a ditch, get a puncture or mechanical, or run out of gas, we can't be there to support you, as we have enough to worry about in terms of the trip and our own ability to complete it, so we will likely keep trucking.

This may seem a tad ungracious, but we will have challenge enough trying to get round ourselves, and we trust you appreciate this.

So be self-sufficient, and make sure you have an escape route if the worst should happen.

Join Us on The Ulster Way!

We are inviting anybody else who reckons they are up to it to join us on our route. Join us for a day, a few days, part of a day, or the whole thing! You will get an idea of what's in store from the descriptions on this site, but be warned, we are looking at 12-hour days!

We intend to make an early start each morning, carrying everything we will need for that day, and we will finish when we finish, most likely in a quite appalling physical and mental state.

Note that cycling is not sanctioned (or possible!) on some of the route, so anyone joining us will need to be prepared to carry their bike for some (possibly long) sections, depending on that day's terrain.

If you plan to join us, we would be delighted to see you, but remember you need to sort yourself out with transport, accommodation, kit, etc. We will have enough to think of, and won't be able to provide much support beyond information.

Ulster Way Accommodation and Logistics

Each night, we are staying in the following towns/villages:

• Night 1 - Newcastle
• Night 2 - Tandragee
• Night 3 - Belcoo
• Night 4 - Gortin
• Night 5 - Portrush
• Night 6 - We will hopefully be finished and at home!

Our biggest challenge (apart from the ride!) is arranging transport of our bags of "essential items" from each day's start location to the finish location. Our essential items?

• Maintenance and repair equipment
• Various ointments and remedies
• Spare clothing
• Detailed maps
• Recovery food and drinks
• Spares
• A good book!

Ulster Way Day Mileage and Route Description

Day 1 – Saturday 3 May 2008 - Belfast to Newcastle (99 miles)
Belfast City Hall, out the Lagan tow-path to Lisburn
Backroads from Lisburn through Stormont to Holywood
North Down Coastal Path as far as Groomsport
Coast road along Ards Peninsula to Portaferry
Ferry to Strangford
Lecale Way along the coast to Newcastle

Day 2 – Sunday 4 May 2008 - Newcastle to Tandragee (97 miles)
Over the Mournes via Mourne Way to Rostrevor
Coast road to Newry
Ring of Gullion waymarked way
Newry Canal tow-path to Portadown
Back along tow-path to Tandragee

Day 3 – Monday 5 May 2008 - Tandragee to Belcoo (111 miles)
Back along tow-path to Scarva
Backroads through Clare, Armagh, Caledon, to Aughnacloy
Sliabh Beagh waymarked way Aughnacloy to Donagh
Backroads through Lakelands to Florence-court
Florencecourt to Belcoo along the Culcaigh waymarked way

Day 4 – Tuesday 6 May 2008 - Belcoo to Gortin (98 miles)
Belcoo to Belleek through Ballintempo, Big Dog, Lough Navar Forests
Backroads along the border to Pettigo
Lough Braden Forest and over Bessy Bell
Gortin Glen Forest Park to Gortin

Day 5 – Wednesday 7 May 2008 - Gortin to Giant's Causeway (93 miles)
Backroads Gortin to Moneyneany
Moneyneany to Dungiven
Dungiven through Cam, Springwell, Binevenagh to Castlerock
Castlerock to Portstewart
Portstewart to Giant’s Causeway

Day 6 – Thursday 8 May 2008 - Giant's Causeway to Belfast (93 miles)
Giant’s Causeway to Ballycastle
The Moyle Way to Glenariff/Waterfoot
Coast road to Glenarm
Antrim Hills Way - from Glenarm through Ballyboley Forest to Ballynure
Backroads through Woodburn and Whiteabbey
Arrive Belfast City Hall

The Ulster Way Route

We are starting at Belfast City Hall early on 3rd May 2008

Travelling clockwise
Our Ulster Way route is shown in blue
Start and finish of each day is shown in red